Breeding and Care of Pit Bull Terriers IN 1910

The following information on breeding Pit Bull Terriers (which also applies to many other breeds of approximately the same size and characteristics) is extracted from the book Fighting Pit Bull and Bull Terrier, originally written in 1910. It reflects the knowledge and practices of that time and is shared here for educational purposes. You can purchase the book at https://apbtinfo.com/apbt-books

Proper Puppy Development

A young dog that is completely beaten by an older dog in a test sometimes loses confidence in itself and may never recover it, even as an adult. To physically develop a puppy and give it every reasonable opportunity to grow and thrive, it should be fed four times a day with a diet that suits its constitution. It should also be exercised according to its constitution. The fact that one puppy thrives on one thing while another requires something different means that each puppy in a litter should not receive the same food and treatment if you want healthy and robust puppies.

Selecting the Right Dogs for Breeding

You cannot breed first-class dogs from a good dog and an inferior bitch. Make sure your bitch is good in all aspects and then breed her to a good dog you are sure comes from a good family of Pit Bull Terriers, dogs that can not only hold their own but also punish while there. Breed to a dog that is likely to correct your bitch's defects while retaining her good qualities in the offspring. For example, if you have a light-headed bitch, breed her to a heavy-muzzled dog, and if your bitch is long-legged and light-boned, breed her to a good sturdy dog with plenty of bone and muscle. But of all things, don't forget courage and fighting ability, and go beyond that to ensure that this dog transmits these qualities to its puppies. Admirable qualities must exist for many generations to ensure their perpetuation is highly likely.

Caring for Females in Heat and Pregnancy

Never keep a dog with a bitch when she is in heat. As soon as the bitch is "mated," remove the dog, and it is advisable to keep your bitch in seclusion for another one or two weeks. It is important that your bitch is not too fat because if she is, your litter is likely to be small in number and the puppies inferior. You can usually tell if your bitch is "pregnant" around the fifth week, and from then until the ninth week, the abdominal enlargement becomes more and more pronounced.

Preparing for Whelping

After reaching maturity, usually around nine months of age, the female will go "into heat," experiencing recurring sexual activity typically twice a year, in regular, more or less fixed periods. Although these periods can be delayed or shortened, they are generally very regular. They are usually preceded by a brief interval of excitement, indicating the approach of a major change. The reproductive system forms a connected set, so it is not uncommon for the activity of the essential organs to be accompanied by a corresponding increase in the vascularization or blood supply to other parts, causing the external genitals to enlarge. There is a visible mucus flow, soon followed by blood. As soon as the eggs are mature, the female will accept the male. This usually occurs after the appearance of blood but can be before it disappears or shortly after, typically the latter. The female should be allowed to choose her own time for mating with the male.

The entire period of the female "in heat" extends for about three weeks, sometimes more, and in rare cases, less. During this time, it is of utmost importance to keep the female completely separated from all dogs except the one selected for mating.

About sixty-three days after mating, the female is generally ready to give birth, although a variation of one or two days in either direction may not have any special significance. Generally, the expectant mother prefers to give birth in her usual locations, although she sometimes expresses a desire for a change. There are many methods for preparing the whelping area, and some breeders do not think it necessary to make any changes from the ordinary at this time. However, some considerations are absolutely necessary to ensure the comfort and well-being of the mother and her family.

Preparing for Whelping and Post-Birth Care

First, make sure the female has enough space to move around so that when the puppies are being born, there is no danger of the mother stepping on or crushing them when she gets up and lies down. Then, meticulous cleanliness is urgent to prevent the breeding of worms and the contraction of blood poisoning. The easiest way to ensure this is to have two mobile platforms, raised a couple of inches off the ground. These can be thoroughly cleaned and changed as often as necessary. The best bedding is clean, dry straw, which can be easily removed and burned.

Gestation Period and Female Care

During the gestation period, the female should be allowed to exercise as she sees fit; let her roam at will, if possible; in any case, she should have free exercise every day. Feed more than usual, giving plenty of meat, both raw and cooked. If only one meal has been customary, increase to two, and even three, a few weeks before whelping. Give her milk freely, and also whipped raw eggs. It is customary for some breeders to give a dose of castor oil the day before whelping, to empty the intestines. However, this is unnecessary, except in cases of severe constipation. Normally, the intestines will empty during the labor pains, and the medicine is likely to cause diarrhea in the puppies.

Signs of Whelping and Immediate Preparation

A little before whelping, the female undergoes a marked change. She exhibits great nervousness and frequently trembles, no matter how warm her quarters are; she appears disheartened, with a tendency to sneak away by herself. She shows great concern for her bedding, scratching and tearing it. These signs usually indicate that puppies can be expected within twenty-four hours. The tendency to sneak away to some secluded corner is attributed by many to a desire of the female to be alone during whelping. Companionship should never be intrusive, and if you stay with the mother, do not interfere with her proceedings unless you know you can be of positive help to her. When the litter is large, sometimes if the puppies are placed in a dry, warm basket at birth, they will be kept out of the way of the mother and thus saved from the possibility of being stepped on. There should be plenty of water within the mother's reach, and milk as well. The temperature of the kennel should be kept at 80° during whelping and should not be lowered during the first few days after the puppies are born.

Feeding Puppies and Early Care

Of course, the best time for a female to give birth is during early spring, as in a few weeks the puppies can go outdoors, which, with the sun, will greatly aid their growth. Early feeding of the puppies is of paramount importance. As soon as possible after birth, they should be placed at the mother's teats. Six or eight puppies are enough for a female to nurse. If the litter is larger, the others should be given to a foster mother or disposed of by drowning. If this option is chosen, it is good to wait until the second day, as the weakest ones cannot be easily detected on the first day. If there are suspicions that the mother's milk supply is insufficient, means for artificial feeding should be provided immediately.

Warmth and Health for Puppies

The best way is to give the puppies to a foster mother, if one can be obtained; if not, they should be fed with cow's milk with a small amount of lime water added. This can be given with a spoon or a bottle with a rubber nipple, inside which a small piece of clean sponge has been placed. They will require feeding every hour and a half during the first week, increasing to two hours in the second week and three hours during the third week. Puppies separated from the mother should be kept in a well-lined basket and slightly covered during the first few weeks to protect them from drafts.

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